The chef has a keen eye for aesthetics, as in a seared fillet of salmon perched on blue cheese mashed potatoes surrounded by a hash of sauteed spinach, roasted corn and lengths of sauteed shiitake mushroom. The bar here was part of the set for the filming of the 1953 Robert Wagner sponge drama, Beneath the 12-Mile Reef. These days Tracey Swade and Bobby Clark have crafted the historic building into a contemporary dining room with pale fawn walls, rich brown brocade booths and a magnificent long wooden bar.

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