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When I’m on a fishing expedition in Florida, I search out local seafood shacks to get the freshest fish and shellfish prepared the way I grew up eating them in Jacksonville.
The Wharf, accessible by boat, is on the Intracoastal Waterway on Pass-a-Grille Way. The 1930s-vintage building was originally a fish-processing plant and, in a sense, still is. The grouper sandwich is superb. Complement that with some rich and spicy seafood gumbo and an order of smoked seafood spread, and lunch is complete. 727-367-9469
Mullet is Florida’s … most underrated fish, seldom served in “finer” restaurants. But Rusty Bellie's Waterfront Grill in Tarpon Springs offers a delectable fried mullet fillet. And the fact that the owner’s shrimp boat is docked outside the restaurant explains the most succulent and sweet grilled shrimp I’ve ever eaten. 727-934-4047
One street back from the sand in Clearwater Beach is Cooter's Restaurant & Bar. It specializes in crab, but the steamed shrimp is top-of-the-line. Start with an order of grouper cheeks, the choicest morsels from one of Florida’s choicest fish. 727-462-2668
In the market for some luscious seafood after you get home? Check out Frenchy’s Ozona Stone Crab Co. (www.ozonastonecrab.com). The restaurant can ship the crustaceans to your door, cooked and ready to eat. Enjoy them warm with drawn butter, or cold with spicy mustard sauce. You don’t want to miss this food-of-the-gods native to Florida’s Gulf waters.
