Hearing that the new Water Witch [1] restaurant serves fish tacos was all it took to get me to Historic Gulfport [1]. It had been too long since I had visited the patchouli-scented waterfront community, and my Mexican seafood favorite is harder to find than you might think.

The minute I pull into the waterfront neighborhood, my shoulders ease, and I wonder why I stayed away so long. Hanging out in this colorful community is like spending a Sunday afternoon with old friends. There's nothing pretentious, and there's no rush, just many small retailers living their dreams, making and selling art, leading kayak eco-tours and running small restaurants.

It's a place where dogs are often welcomed indoors ("as long as they wipe the feet”), and you never know what you might find. On this visit, as I make my way down Beach Boulevard, I duck into the Beach Bazaar, a funky collectibles shop, and discover a miniature old-fashioned post office in the rear, nestled among vintage John F. Kennedy drinking glasses, Gulfport caps and tins of cat food. This offbeat retail approach reflects the town's diverse population – primarily bohemians, retirees and blue-collar workers.

There's an artists' emporium and coffee shop along the main drag, and just a block away a romantic bed and breakfast serves elegant dinners. Around the corner, locals play pool and down draft beers at a bar established before they were born.

At the foot of Beach Boulevard, on the waterfront, the 1930s Gulfport Casino [1] and a marquee advertising tango lessons look back at the town like a jovial citadel. It's just a few steps from there that I find the rustic Water Witch [1], with indoor and covered patio seating. I look over the menu to find my coveted fish tacos, but so many other dishes tempt me! I learn that the owners serve only fresh, never frozen seafood, hormone-free beef and chicken and organic vegetables from area farms.

I stick with my original plan and have no regrets. The tacos arrive loaded with broiled fish, piles of fresh greens, chopped tomatoes, sour cream and potato chips so hearty I thought they were homemade. I leave vowing to return for breakfast or dinner, but then I turn the corner and notice another unexplored restaurant. Guess I'll have to spend a lot more time in Gulfport.

If you go: Water Witch [1], 5519 Shore Blvd., 727-346-2444