Latin-Influenced Dining in St. Petersburg/Clearwater

Story highlights:
  • Unfussy, Old World Cuban fare at Amelita's
  • Authentic tapas and Flamenco music at Ceviche
  • Down-home Puerto Rican cooking in Tarpon Springs

The Columbia Restaurant on Sand Key offers great food with a view.

By Su Byron

St. Pete/Clearwater is steeped in the culinary, cultural and architectural influences of Spain, the Caribbean and Latin and South America. Here’s a taste of inspired restaurants that offer Spanish-influenced cuisine.

Old World Cuban

The unfussy Cuban fare at family-owned Amelita's Spanish Cuban Café is as auténtico as it gets. Think savory, not spicy. Chef-owner Wayne Ramos learned his secrets from his Cuban aunts and grandmothers, whose culinary style leaned more toward Old World Spanish fare than Latin American. Amelita’s celebrated Cuban sandwiches are made with fresh bread from Ybor City’s La Segunda Central Bakery; the soulfully tender roast pork is a star attraction. The flan is another can’t-miss (save room).

Cali-Mex Fare and Killer Beer

Folks flock to Peg's Cantina and Brew Pub in Gulfport for its awesome selection of artisanal beers (a few brewed especially for Peg’s), wholesome Cali-Mexican fare (chef tony Dodson and owner Peg Wesselink stick to fresh, local ingredients) and funky, indoor/outdoor ambiance. There’s occasional live music, and a covered deck for casual sipping and supping. Start with a tortilla-crust pizza (the roasted red pepper and goat cheese is my favorite) and follow with the shrimp burrito drenched in Peg’s homemade salsa fuega.

Ole!

A quest for authentic tapas and Flamenco music brought us to Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant in downtown St. Pete. The passionate sounds of Spanish guitar and a menu offering more than 100 tapas told us we’d come to the right place. We started with the “Ceviche de la Casa” (shrimp, scallops, squid and fish), washed down with a bottle of cava, champagne’s sparkling Spanish cousin. Next, with the sultry flamenco beat rising around us, we feasted on tapas and topped it off with “Crema Catalana” (akin to crème brulee).

Brazilian Barbecue

If you’re an unrepentant carnivore with a love of sophisticated Brazilian cuisine, La Fogata in Gulfport is for you. On the weekends, experience the prix-fixe churrasco menu – a Brazilian tradition of roasting meat over an open mesquite fire and then serving it on skewers tableside. If barbecue’s not your thing, the eclectic menu offers tapas, inspired salads and entrees, and sweet endings. Do as the Brazilians do, and start your experience off with a Caipirinha, Brazil’s national cocktail.

Romance Español

Ingredients: Two people in love, a table at the Columbia Restaurant on Clearwater Beach’s Sand Key, and a romantic view of the luminous Intracoastal Waterway. Add a bottle of sparkling Spanish cava, a plate of crab croquettes to share, Columbia’s classic “Paella a la Valencia” for two and a bottle of hearty Roja wine. Turn up the heat, share pointed looks and let simmer. Finish with the decadently sweet “Moros y Cristianos,” a rich chocolate mousse with Spanish custard. Al amor! (A second location, also waterfront, is at The Pier in downtown St. Petersburg.)

Nuevo Latino Cuisine

At Gulfport’s Habana Cafe, culinary wizard and author Josefa Gonzalez-Hastings celebrates her Cuban heritage with nuevo Latino recipes from her award-winning The Habana Café Cookbook. Try the “Camarones Borracho,” a piquant treat of shrimp sautéed in olive oil, white wine, fresh garlic and heavenly mojo sauce (ask for plenty of fresh Cuban bread to soak it up). The sweet, tender fried plantains make a perfect sidekick to the shrimp. The cream cheese flan won Southern Living’s “Best Signature Dessert,” so don’t leave without a heaping forkful.

Gourmet Spanish

Pepin Restaurant in St. Petersburg goes by the motto: “Al pan, pan, y al vino, vino.” Literally: “Bread is bread and wine is wine.” Here, substance comes first: Owners Jose and Delia Cortes celebrate simplicity, so every menu item is fresh, most of the fish is caught locally, the bread is homemade and the wines are hand-selected from Spain. Start with tapas: The “Crab Cakes Pepin” bathed in mango tamarind salsa are legendary. Fish is king here: Try the “Pompano a la Sal,” baked in salt and filleted tableside.

Creative Mexican

Husband-and-wife team Tina and Javier Avila have put their heart, soul and creative culinary expertise into Dunedin’s Casa Tina Mexican Grill. Their menu is an inventive mix of traditional and nuevo Mexican fare. Entrees like the chayote relleno (steamed squash packed with breadcrumbs, garlic and almonds) will please vegetarians. The mango quesadillas burst with jalapeno cheese, shrimp and mango, ginger and cilantro. On weekends, families pack the place to watch aerial acrobats work their magic.

Puerto Rican Paradise

Latin Flavor in Tarpon Springs is the place for down-home Puerto Rican cooking. Start with a plate of sautéed shrimp and a heaping mound of garlic-flavored mofongo. What’s mofongo? These mashed, fried plantains are the perfect accompaniment to any meat or seafood. Add a side of beans and rice, and we’re talking foodie heaven. They’re only open for lunch, but no worries – you won’t be hungry again until the morning.

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